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Author: Mark S.

  • Training Tips for Successfully Walking Your Dog

    When walking your dog, does it ever seem like your getting pulled down the street or practically getting your arm ripped off when your dog sees another dog? This can make walking your dog seem like a chore, but with a little work and a lot of love, your beloved companion can be a joy to walk with regardless of where you go. Here are some helpful training tips to help you master the skill of walking your dog.

    Always walking side by side with your dog is very important. Never allow him to lead the way, as this is a sign of dominance to the dog. The leader is always in charge. So as long as you continue to give in, your dog will remain in charge and pull you down the street to assert their authority. Keep a treat in hand to keep all the attention focused on you and where you want your dog to be during the walk.

    Never lengthen or shorten the leash. The leash should remain the same length at all times. This will teach him that he is only allowed a certain distance from you. Until fully trained, retractable leashes should never be used during dog walks as they allow free range and authority over the walk. Plus, most large breed dogs can easily break retractable leashes.

    Don’t give into pulling the leash for the entire walk. If your dog pulls you in a direction, give a snap back on the leash. Pay attention to the signs your dog is giving you and you will be able to predict any pulling. However, if your dog tries to take off, make sure to hold your ground. Plant your feet firmly on the ground, lean back and don’t move. Lowering your center of gravity will offset your dog and give him a good jolt.

    Ignore other people and things that will interest your dog. If you give no attention to those things that may grab your dog’s attention, he will soon start to realize that it is not so important to be interested in it. If a dog is passing across the street, keep walking and ignore it. If he pulls towards that direction, keep walking straight and pull him along. After a while, he will see the other dog but it will no longer be of interest.

  • Tips for Childproofing Your Dog

    Do you have young children in your home? If so, it is vital to ensure they are always safe around your dog. With this being said, dogs are not the only ones who need training. Children also need to be given rules about how to behave around your dog. The following tips will help prevent incidents and keep both your children and pup safe.

    Most children can’t keep themselves from throwing their arms around a dog’s neck or tugging on a dog’s tail. Try and prepare your dog for this kind of attention before his first encounters with a child. Give him lots of praise and maybe even a few treats while you gently pull his tail, hold his paws, hug him, and check out his ears.

    Let’s face it, kids behave differently than adults. They run, move and scream erratically. Try to introduce your dog to some of these behaviors yourself. Teach your dog to stay in one spot while you run around your yard or yell in a high-pitched voice.

    You can also get your dog used to typical child behavior by taking him to a park or playground. Keep your distance at first, and slowly work your way closer. If at any point your dog seems concerned, take a few steps back and start over. Keep things fun, have some treats in hand and make sure to praise him.

    Dogs often will feel more at ease around children if they have an escape route. Crate train your dog so that he is happy and comfortable in a crate. Make it clear to any children in your home that the crate is off limits to anyone but the dog. This way your dog can interact with the children when he wants to, but he also has a safe place to retreat.

    Most people believe that holding a dog so a child can pet him is a good way to introduce dogs and kids. This is NOT true. If a dog is afraid of children, holding him while one approaches to pet him can be a unpleasant experience. A dog that is afraid can become aggressive and growl, snap, or even bite in an effort to escape the situation. Instead allow your dog as much time as he needs to get comfortable around kids, and give him the chance to approach when he feels ready.

  • Tips to Dog Misbehaviors When Visitors Come Over

    Many people seem to think that when their dog is jumping or barking at company, they feel the need to scream at the dog. A much more affective method would be to give your dog something more productive to do. A good start is to teach him to “lay down” or “stay”. Then once the dog understands these simple commands, then work towards having someone ring the doorbell or knock. Try keeping your dog on a leash and collar when practicing. When approaching the door, have the dog do their ‘lay down’ and if they are too excited, give them a small tug as a little bit of motivation to ‘lie down’ and ‘stay’. Then try opening the door. It’s often too much to ask expecting the dog to know what to do right away. You will need to guide your dog and show him what is more appropriate then just barking.

    As for when to take the leash off, try to do this in stages. The first couple of times you will go through this, the dog is on leash. Once the dog gets used to the idea that this is what we do instead of jumping on friends or family, we drop the leash but he is still wearing it. If the dog decides not to obey these commands, you are still able to give him another small tug on the leash. Once you are convinced that your dog is starting to listen well, you may continue your practice without the use of the leash.

    When giving the “lay down” or “stay” commands, try attaching something physical to the dog such as the leash and giving a small tug now and then. This way you are attaching something physical to the words you’re using and puts you in a position where you don’t have to yell, you don’t have to scream, you can simply get your dog to just simply lay down. Easier said then done, it does take constant repetition and does take a lot of work but doing it in those stages you can work your way to having your dog off the use of the leash. Now you have accomplished reversing the unacceptable response to when the doorbell rings, the dog lays down. That becomes the natural behavior instead of your dog going insane, barking, and jumping.

  • How to Teach Your Puppy Their Name

    Once you have chosen a name for your puppy, you need to teach him what it is. Your objective is to teach him that when his name is called, you are requesting his full attention and to look directly at you.

    As you go on to teach your puppy commands, such as come, sit and stay, you’ll do this successfully if your puppy is focused on you whilst you are teaching him these commands – this is why it’s so important he knows his name and responds to it.

    Your puppy will start to learn that the sound of his name will be followed by a command, so to him, his name means that something is being specifically asked of him. When you use your puppy’s name, you must keep it associated with good things. Don’t call his name and then proceed to yell at him because he’s chewed something of yours. If you do this too often he’ll start to associate his name with being screamed at and won’t respond when you call. Realistically, his is easier said than done, but it will be worth all your hard efforts in the end.

    So arm yourself with some tasty treats and put a leash on your puppy. That way you have complete control if he gets distracted by something or tries to wander off. Call his name in a positive and voice. Puppy’s love to hear your voice and will naturally look towards you when they hear you speak. As he looks in your direction, give him a treat and praise him verbally with “good boy”. Repeat this several times each day until he consistently looks towards you every time his name is called.

    The next progression is to introduce a distraction. Try this with other people in the room, out in the yard, in the driveway, when or anywhere else you can think of. Don’t rush this step and always make it easy for your puppy to succeed, he wants to please you, so do your best to make it easy for him.

    You need to teach your puppy that wherever you are, no matter the distraction, if he hears his name he needs to look at you and wait for further instruction. So, take small steps that can easily be achieved, then you will both look forward to every training session.

  • Practical Tips for Stopping Food Aggression

    Determine when the best time is to feed your dog. You want to feed your dog at a time when there is relative quietness in the house and when the dog can relax afterward. This brings the stress levels down and allows the dog to relax more and be a less protective. Try to always feed your dog at the same time. In the ideal case that should be after you have eaten, as the alpha dogs eat first and the lower ranking pack members last.

    Establish a place and a routine to feed your dog. Always feed your dog at the same place and follow a certain routine. You will imitate the alpha dog that comes back from a hunt and shares the food with the lower ranking members of the pack. Try faking that you are eating a bit first and then giving the bowl to the dog to emphasize this. Make sure that everyone in the household takes his/ her turn to establish the idea in the dog that all humans are higher ranking pack members that share food with the lowest ranking pack member. Soon your dog will understand when it is feeding time for him.

    If you have several dogs in the household that are food aggressive amongst themselves, you must know who is the higher ranking member in the “dog only” part of the pack and feed them in this order. If your dogs go through a phase of re-establishing their ranks, feed them apart and out of sight of each other.

    Don’t feed your dog at the dinner table while you are eating. The alpha dogs will share the leftovers after they had their fill, not before. Remember that a lot of human food is not suitable for dogs, salt can damage their kidneys. So your best method to follow is not to never feed your dog at the table.

    Here are a few more simple training solutions that may help with this common situation. Make sure that your dog gets plenty of exercise. A tired dog is less likely to get aggressive then one that has way too much built up energy. Make known to your dog the proper distinction between food time/ place and other things like time for play. Give the dog the opportunity to alternate between playing and being fed.

    Good luck to you, your dog and which ever training methods you take!

  • Common Mistakes When Training Your New Pup

    Puppies are capable of learning simple commands from a very young age. Don’t try to give your puppy a meaningful training session if he is highly excited, occupied with exploring, or tired. You need his complete attention. Otherwise you’re wasting both your time and his. You can build up to training sessions in more distracting environments once your puppy is reliably responding to your commands when at home.

    When it comes to home training, you don’t need to be a rocket scientist to understand the concept, what goes in must come out. If you feed your puppy a quality, nutritious and balanced dog food and stick to regular meal times (3 times a day for young puppies, dropping down to twice a day for older dogs), then your puppy is more likely to have regular potty habits which means you’ll have a much better idea of what time to take him out. If, on the other hand, your constantly offering your puppy with treats and tidbits and feed him at random times of the day, you can expect your puppy to need to potty at any time of day too.

    If you’re expectations are too high of your puppy to master all of your commands in the first couple of weeks, you are sadly mistaken and will be disappointed. Young puppies, in particular, have a lot of information to take in the first few weeks as they get settled into their new home away from their mom and siblings. Try to start off with two or three commands at the most sit. “Come” and “down” should be of top priority. Don’t move on to new commands until you are confident enough that your pup has mastered the basics.

    Like an adolescent child, puppies have short attention spans and get tired very quickly. Remember, when training your puppy, keep sessions short. 5 to 10 minutes should be sufficient enough time. Two or three short training sessions every day is ideal. You can build in the command “come” throughout the day such as when you want to feed your puppy or take him outside.

    A pup will learn much faster and affectively through the association of an action with a positive reward. However, our attention can also be very rewarding to a puppy. This can also include negative attention such as yelling, scolding, or punishment.

  • Is Dogs Eating Grass, Harmless or a Health Concern?

    For the most part, dogs are mainly carnivores, but they can and do eat plants and vegetables. One of the more common plants eaten by dogs is basic grass. Raw grass is not toxic to dogs unless it is treated with chemical pesticides and or fertilizers. So if you begin to notice this habit in your dog, don’t panic. The exact reason behind why dogs eat grass and why it makes some dogs throw up is still basically unknown.

    Theories about Dogs Consuming Grass:

    For years, dog owners and veterinarians believed that dogs with upset stomachs ate grass to induce vomiting or that the grass upset some dogs’ digestive systems. A study has been conducted were approximately 1,500 dogs were examined that had consumed grass at least ten times over the course of a year to get more definitive answers. The study found that less than nine percent were sick prior to eating the grass, and less than one in four vomited after consuming the grass. The researchers determined that grass consumption is most likely a trait that modern dogs have inherited from their wolf ancestors which also ate grass occasionally. Scientists believe wolves generally eat grass to help them purge internal parasites and prevent the parasites from building up in their systems.

    When Grass Consumption May Signal an Illness:

    Owners who occasionally catch their dogs in the act of eating grass can relax a bit once they understand that this behavior is fairly normal and usually harmless. However, it still pays to watch for any change in your dog’s general behavior and habits after he consumes that grass. If your dog becomes lethargic, has diarrhea, or shows any other signs of illness right before or shortly after eating grass, you should ask your veterinarian to evaluate your pet’s health right away. While grass is unlikely the cause of any illness, any change in eating habits and behavior sometimes indicates a problem. A veterinarian can examine the dog to try to determine exactly what’s going on.

    Since the consumption of grass by dogs is generally harmless, there is no reason to prevent your dog from eating it. Unless he eats an unusually large amount each time or it always causes vomiting. Of course, never let a dog eat or play on grass that has been treated with harmful chemicals for pest control or fertilizers.

     

  • A Helping Hand in Housebreaking Your Puppy or Adult Dog

    Housebreaking is an issue that can be addressed at any stage in a dog’s life. Food is also a very important step into successfully housebreaking your dog. Good quality food is a key factor in regulating these unfortunate incidents. Higher quality foods mean less filler so the dog needs less food to get the same amount of nutrition. With lower quality food, your dog has to eat more to get the same nutrition. Remember, the more food you feed your dog, the more stool.

    Keep your puppy or dog on a schedule:

    The very first step to housebreaking your puppy is to establish a schedule. It is critical to stay as close to the same times every day until your puppy has fully understood the concept you are teaching him. The more committed you are to a set schedule, the faster the puppy will develop a feel for the concept. This will help him to build an internal time clock for his own schedule.

    Let him out to potty after eating, playing or waking up. Don’t give your dog big meals right before leaving the house for an extended period of time or right before going to bed. Be sure that your dog has plenty of chances to go potty in the right place. Only taking him out once or twice a day just won’t cut it. If your puppy is still having accidents, you may need a house breaking class to assist. This will offer you the proper aid in making sure your pup is “doing his business” in the right places.

    Praise your puppy or dog when he gets it right:

    In the beginning phases of housebreaking, don’t just open the door. Don’t just send your dog outside with high expectations that he naturally knows what to do. You should go out with your dog so you know for a sure whether he’s gone or not. Most importantly, don’t forget or be afraid to celebrate with your dog when he does the right thing outside. Verbal praise, petting and play are great rewards that will convince your dog that going outside to do his thing, is definitely the way to go!

    Generally, most dogs and puppies can be successfully housebroken by following these few simple rules. However, sometimes housebreaking can be some what tricky and may require a customized housebreaking program.

  • How to Break Common Excessive Behaviors & Simple Solutions

    Excessive Digging:

    Digging occurs for many reasons. They dig cooling pits when it’s hot and warming pits when it’s cold. Dogs dig to bury and recover bones. Digging is a highly enjoyable and natural canine activity. Lack of exercise, prolonged confinement and boredom can also be the blame. Once digging starts, it can quickly become a habit.

    Providing your dog with regular walks, play-time and proper training, the better chances you will not have a digging problem. But until your dog has been taught that digging up your yard is unacceptable, he should not be given free access to these areas when you are not there to watch over him. Confinement is not the solution. It is only a temporary measure until your dog can be trusted out in the yard.

    Excessive Chewing:

    When yelling at your dog for chewing something up, such as a newspaper, both the owner and dog are completely misunderstanding each other. We feel that when the dog has his head down and looking guilty, that he must know what he did was wrong. The dog’s body language is actually showing he is frightened and submissive. So in reality, he is avoiding punishment. He may indeed know you are angry about the newspaper, but what about the newspaper? Are the pieces not small enough or is the job not done well enough?

    Whatever the dog is thinking you are mad about, it is not for the act of chewing because that is not what he was doing when you scolded him. In order for him to know you are mad about chewing the paper, he must be caught in the act of chewing.

    Excessive Barking:

    Barking is the most natural thing for a dog. It’s a dog’s way of communicating, like humans when talking. You cannot expect to own a dog and not have a certain amount of barking, whining and howling. Barking is simply what dogs do. You can however, train your dog to bark less frequently than he might already do.

    Every time your dog barks, after two or three barks, praise him for sounding the alarm. Then ask him to, stop barking. At the same time, wave a favorite treat in front of his nose. Most dogs immediately stop barking because they can not enjoy a treat and bark at the same time. During this time, continuously praise him.

  • Why Does My Puppy Bite and How Do I Take Control?

    Your puppies need for biting is a perfectly natural and essential phase to go through, especially when they are teething. With this being said, however, it is not acceptable to have your pup chewing on you, or anyone for that matter.

    Puppy biting or nipping starts out as a bit of fun, but needs to be controlled quickly to avoid ongoing problems. Most puppies can be trained to regulate and minimize the biting fairly easily. The sooner you get started educating your puppy not to bite, the easier it will be. Remember, the younger the pup, the “softer” the bite.

    Proven Techniques:

    If you catch the biting, just try to redirect the biting from your flesh to a toy or chew bone. For very young puppies this method is often all you need do. As soon as your pup starts to bite your hands just let out a firm “No!” and replace your fingers with a chew toy.

    Make your puppy think he is hurting you each time he has a nip at you. This method replicates the way dogs sort out this biting amongst themselves. When puppies are biting and nipping each other it only stops when one puppy lets out a yelp. We can use this natural way dogs learn by letting out an “Ouch!”  every time your puppy bites. The trick is to startle your dog using your voice, and then pull away and stop playing with your puppy for a while. Your pup will soon learn that when he begins to bite, his friend goes away.

    In bad biting cases, as soon as your puppy latches onto your hand say “No!” and quickly put your thumb inside his mouth under his tongue. Your other finger will be under his chin and pinch down, but not to tightly. This will feel uncomfortable to your puppy and he won’t be able to bite you.

    If your puppy has an even more severe biting problem, try putting on a pair of gloves and apply a foul tasting substance to them. Your dog will soon understand that if he bites you, it won’t be very pleasant! This method produces a strong negative association to your dog every time he decides to bite you. Some dogs are smart enough to realize that when you take your foul tasting gloves off, it is fine to bite you again.